The Ultimate Guide To Floor Sanding Brisbane
If you live in Brisbane and are the proud owner of a stunning hardwood floor, whether it is an ancient hardwood masterpiece or something more modern like magnificent solid Oak, it needs sanding after several years.
The wonderful thing about wooden floors is that they can be sanded down when they get scratched, damaged, or dirty, restoring the grain’s depth and beauty of color to make them appear new.
If this sounds tempting, now is the time to begin sanding. This is a practical guide to sanding, finishing, and maintaining a hardwood floor. Of course, if you want, you may simply leave the wood floor alone to develop a beautiful, battered patina over time.
While sanding and refinishing provide a clean, attractive, new-looking appearance, there is no reason why you cannot allow your floor to wear naturally. Again, it is just a matter of aesthetics.
What Is the Point of Sanding and Renovating Your Floor?
The sanding of newly designed floors is done to ensure that they are perfectly level. In contrast, the sanding of old floors is done to remove old, raggedy wood finishes and level off worn areas. Any floor in Brisbane that will be finished later will need to be sanded and polished before the finish can be applied to it.
Maintenance, Polishing, and Floor Sanding Brisbane
Suppose you want to refurbish your old hardwood floor, or you may wish to give your freshly placed floor a lovely, long-lasting finish. We recommend this company if you are from Brisbane and do not want to do it yourself.
This article will explain how to handle the sanding, preparation, and treatment of oils and lacquers of your furnishings.
Sanding and Prepping the Surface
Before you begin sanding down to the bare wood, you must countersink or remove any nail or screw heads that protrude from the surface of the wood. The sanding process itself is divided into many phases, depending on the general state of the floor. There are a few essential considerations to keep in mind.
Is the Floor Made of Natural Wood or Synthetic Wood?
Is it possible for your floor to withstand another sanding if it has previously been sanded? Remove a piece of it to figure out what you are dealing with.
Sanding Disc or Sanding Belt, which one to Use?
What you may expect depends on the state of the floor? If the surface is very worn and uneven, begin with coarse sandpaper and work your way down to lower coarse papers. Sandpaper grits for hardwood flooring are typically available in sizes ranging from 16 – 150 grit, 16 being the most abrasive and 150 being the finest available.
Most sanding operations begin with 36 / 40 grit sandpaper and use approximately 120 grit for the final finish. If you are not utilizing dust-free sanding equipment, make sure to vacuum up all dust between sandpaper grade changes. Save some of the finest sanding dust for later; you will need the finest grit if your floor requires filling.
Begin in the center of the room and make your way outward. Guide the sanding machine gently around the floor at a moderate pace, maintaining a consistent speed and being cautious not to leave the machine in one area of the floor for an extended period, which may result in gouges that can prove tough to even out.
How about grain? It is undoubtedly beneficial to sand with the grain rather than against it, resulting in a somewhat hairy finish from disrupting the grain rather than following it. If tracking the grain is impossible due to the pattern’s layout, there is a trick:
- Sand in the opposite direction of the light source for intricate herringbone patterns.
- Sand at a 45° angle to the design for Parquet flooring.
After sanding the center part of the floor, it is time to handle the edges. Here is where edge sanding kicks in, eliminating old finish areas around the room that the sanding machine cannot reach. Begin with 36 / 40 grit paper and go to the finest.
It is best to work in slow, circular motions, gradually progressing from heavier to light grits. If you overlook grit levels, you risk creating an odd-looking halo effect that will be accentuated when the wood finish is applied.
According to the majority of sanding experts, “when sanding Parquet or herringbone flooring, it is important to always sand in the orientation of one set of the blocks, which is often 45 degrees to the room. Then, spread the lacquer in the same direction as the wood grain; this will help avoid sanding marks in the final finish.
Preparation and Filling
You should have a nice amount of fine sanded dust leftover from your works since the 80-100 grit sandpaper produces lots of fine sanding dust. Because it matches the floor perfectly, combine it with a clear wood filler gel, and use it to fill any small gaps or holes between the parquet tiles or planks, up to 6mm in diameter. Fill larger gaps with a one- or two-pack wood filler solution.
Sanding and Final Preparation
You will need to do a series of final sanding to smooth out and make the surface finish more pleasant to work with. Utilize a circular motion to introduce 100 grit, followed by finer grades of 120 or 150 grit. Remove any dust between stages; otherwise, residue from the coarser sheets may get trapped under the sander and create unsightly marks.
After sanding and before varnishing, parquet floors produced from tropical hardwoods like Teak, Mahogany, Walnut, and other naturally oily hardwoods may require a methylated spirit scrub. This eliminates excess oils from the newly sanded wood surface that may interfere with the varnish’s adhesion. Another precaution is to use a primer designed specifically for oily hardwoods. If staining the floor, the primer is placed after the wood stain has completely dried and been de-nibbed.
When selecting hardwood floor treatments and finishes, there are many choices to fit any style or budget if you live in Brisbane. Suppose you are missing inspiration and need assistance. In that case, the web may be an excellent place to begin your search and to get your creative juices flowing.
Utilize a brush, cloth, or a special mohair pad to apply the stain. Remove any residue with a dry, clean cloth to ensure the appropriate adhesion of the final lacquer finish.
Never use an external wood stain formulated explicitly for decking, fence, or patio furniture since they include water repellents that resist water-based floor lacquers.
Always use a water-based floor finishing that contains a primer/sealer to bring out the natural color of the wood and minimize the danger of ‘side bonding,’ which occurs when planks or parquet tiles get glued together. When wood shrinks – as it often does due to climatic conditions, central heating, and seasonal temperature fluctuations – the lacquer layer that holds the wood together breaks, creating an unsightly appearance.
Utilize a T-bar applicator or perhaps a short pile mohair roller to apply the sealer. Apply the sealer evenly and uniformly without applying excessive pressure to the roller. With gentle movement, allow the roller to do its work.
Once the sealer has dried thoroughly, which typically takes between 2 and 3 hours, you may begin applying your initial layer of water-based coating. You do not need to sand any further.
Are you aware that lacquer and varnish are synonymous terms? While the trade refers to varnishes as lacquers, the general public refers to these goods as varnishes.
Again, spread the solution evenly over the floor using a T-bar applicator or perhaps a short-haired microfiber roller. Avoid applying downward pressure and instead, let the roller perform its work. If you push down, you may create obnoxious pools of extra lacquer.
- Allow 2-3 hours for the lacquer to fully dry before sanding using a rotary sanding machine (commonly referred to as de-nib) or a 150/180 mesh screen.
- Once all dust and debris have been removed, you are ready to apply the topcoat.
On the pre-sanded surface, apply one layer of sealer or primer. Allow 2-3 hours for drying. Next, use a floor finish applicator or microfiber roller to apply a single coat of floor varnish. Allow 4-6 hours for drying. Remove dust by rotary sanding the area with 150-180 grit paper (de-nib). Use a roller to apply a second layer of water-based floor lacquer. If you want a richer, shinier finish, a third top layer of varnish may be applied.
Sanding a floor is a time-consuming, labor-intensive, and energy-intensive home repair project. The end product will be well worth the effort, but assistance is available if the task seems daunting! Contact a professional floor sander to avoid the headaches associated with dust and heavy equipment.